From the big-wave surfers of Tahiti and the salty hurricane chasers of New England, to the cliffs of Molokai's infamous leper colony and the Wild Coast of South Africa's Transkei Homeland, Return by Water brings light to surfers' lives around the world with amazing sense of place and deft character portraits of the famous, ordinary and irascible surfer alike. Follow surf journalist Kimball Taylor ...
By Kimball Taylor
Paperback: 160 pages
Publisher: Dimdim Publishing (August 1, 2005)
Product Dimensions: 5.8 x 0.5 x 8.5 inches
Amazon Rank: 2916227
Format: PDF Text djvu ebook
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Return By Water: Surf Stories And Adventures reviews:
Although the book's subtitle says "Surf Stories and Adventure," it is more about descriptive adventure than actual surf stories. In one chapter, the hills are described as, "the hides of dead dinosau...
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